The Salon Collection ‘Form’ reflects how traditional French workwear labels have become a source of inspiration for many modern brands. Le Mont Saint Michel, launched in 1913, just a few miles away from the famous abbey after which it was named, combined it’s factory with a school for young war widows. Vétra, whose first motto “Vétra ever lasts,” provided clothing for workers, who, at the time, were compelled to buy their own garments. Le Laboureur ‘The Ploughman’ founded in the early fifties in Burgundy France, continues to use inspiration from the oldest forms of clothing with local made materials and high quality fabrics. Today these iconic brands inspire international fashion including cult brand Vetements who showed an oversized version of the workers chore jacket in their SS16 womenswear collection.
The Academy Collection takes inspiration from the work of documentary photographer August Sander (1876-1964) who spent decades creating a collective portrait of the German people documenting the country’s change from an a rural to industrial economy. His portfolio of people spanned the social classes; bricklayers and clerks were shot alongside bankers and bureaucrats. The photographs were framed with formal simplicity and clothes used as an important identifier of occupation. The purity of Sander’s framing and photographic style plus the historic work-wear worn by his sitters has inspired fashion designers such as diverse as Christophe Lemaire and Yohji Yamamoto and, in turn, this season’s Academy Collection.
The Sassoon discipline of line, graduation and disconnection are used to create the feel of hair in motion. Shapes are worked internally giving structure to the overall look. Edges are added organically, taking their cues from the feel of the internal shape. Fronts are long and loose, layered through from the crown creating versatile cuts that can be worn in different ways.
This season precise sectioning and weaving techniques are used to create the perfect blend of colour placement within the cut. Slices, fine back-to-back panels and classic weaves give a multi-tonal texture to the hair and add depth and shine to solid shapes.
Colours are concealed and convertible, designed to work with the parting of the hair revealing sleight-of-hand shades on the left or the right. The Couture colour palette comprises rich copper-red infused with soft gold and vibrant orange, cool dark brown with accents of caramel and navy blue. Light natural blond is enhanced with ice-white, pale lilac and soft gold.
Underpass; Inspired by Brutalism, a style that hit its peak in the 1970s, provided an uncompromising vision; it’s stripped back and honest ‘streets in the sky’ including London’s Trellick Tower by Erno Goldfinger celebrated the sculptural form of concrete.
There is beauty in the purity of Brutalist architecture – it’s clear in its form without any applied decoration. This season, inspiration is drawn from the Brutalist city and the freedom found down in the raw concrete of its underpasses. Austere architecture is subverted by graffiti and the physicality of skaters and free runners who make the space their own